All Aboard, Upcoming Departure To The Coffee Journey Espresso

Coffee: A brief look into espresso and coffee, grind to extraction. Espresso machine reviews, personal peregrination.
Author: t.DeAngelo

Did you just say Coffee Peregrination?
(per·e·gri·na·tion/perəɡrəˈnāSH(ə)n/)

Okay, right off the bat, you’re probably reading this article simply to learn what the heck the word peregrination means.  Upfront, no one is pregnant. The term appeared on my Word-Of-The-Day App, so I’m going to run with it.  Peregrination, defined, is a long meandering journey, which so happens to describe my coffee experience to a tee.  An enjoyable experience, to say the least, however, long and meandering it is.  Outside of learning a new word, hopefully, I can impart a few nuggets of my trials and tribulations of this ongoing adventure. 

Stovetop Brew (Moka)

Back in the early ’80s, every Sunday, my family would take a trip to visit my grandparents outside of Pittsburgh.  Each visit, there were a few things I could guarantee would happen.  A kiss from my grandmother, being subjected to an endearing whooping from my grandfather (noogie, arm-twist, half-Nelson, shoulder crusher, etc.), and the smell of freshly brewed espresso.  Outside of smelling the coffee aroma throughout my childhood home in the early morning, it’s safe to say my journey began at my grandparents’ house.  That being said, I’d like to introduce you to the Bialetti Moka Stovetop.

Process: No scales for weighing grinds, tamps, Bars of pressure, thermometers, or steaming wand required.  Put all of that stuff away. I’m talking tap water, a towel over the shoulder, a few scoops of frozen grounds, crank that puppy up;  BOOM, within 7-10 minutes, you’re drinking espresso the traditional Italian-American way. Perfect!  Nostalgic taste for my palette, especially with waffle cookies (aka pizzelles). 

Result: I’ve learned, while following this process in my own home, Ninety percent of the people served made some of the most interesting facial expressions!  Not usually in a good way.  For those of you advancing proficiency in the art of espresso (grind to extraction), I’ll briefly explain the underlying reasons for the facial expressions.
Frozen coffee beans with a dark roast, not bad, but the issue is using the same bag for a month or more.  Especially when pre-ground, this usually results in a stale taste.  When not pre-ground, a blade grinder chopped the beans, causing a quick brew, or Under Extraction, yielding a sour taste.  Finally, brewing at 212 degrees creates bubbles.  Bubbles, coupled with a low brew pressure (~1.5 bars), or too fine of a grind results in both an over and uneven extraction, yielding a bitter taste. 

Process Take Two: If you want to take the Stovetop process to the next level, and avoid stale, sour, or bitter tastes, here are a few recommendations.  First, use fresh beans.  Beans fresh out of the roaster need to degas (🤓).  The process varies from blend to roast, but for me, I usually wait 3-4 days before touching a freshly roasted bean.  Second, the grind needs to be dialed-in perfect.  My aim is for less course than a coffee grind, and slightly courser than an espresso grind, right in the middle.  Another essential tip is not to pack the grounds into the funnel (aka filter, basket, portafilter).  Simply place them in the funnel and level with your finger.  Add warm to hot water just below the valve.  Tighten up and set the burner to a medium-high to brew.  The key is an even extraction. Again, scalding water (too hot) with fine grinds will cause Over Extraction (bitter).  Too coarse of a grind will create Under Extraction (sour).
You’ll know you have it right when crème, not coffee, is the first thing to exit the column.  Soon as you hear the gurgle pull the pot and serve.  If you follow this process, there is less chance to get those funny faces from your guests. 

Automatic Drip Coffee

Drip coffee maker.  Referencing an Emma Bedford 2019 publication, in 2010, 75 percent of the day to day coffee drinkers in the U.S. used a drip coffee maker.  I won’t assume a higher number in 1997, but I’ll say that a drip coffee maker was easily accessible for a poor college student.  For what it’s worth, the drip did the job, especially at the tail end of every semester while cramming for finals.

Process: Folgers, 1-3 filters (patience dependent), tap water, brew six cups.  Repeat six hours later. 

Result: I’m not undermining the drip, but I have no real comment on the taste other than it tasted like coffee. I’ve never emphasized the art of the drip.  Maybe I should look into is at some point, but my train of thought is if the “masters” of the craft, Dunkin or Starbucks make a good cup and is never GREAT, why invest the time.  One alternative, use a pot with existing burnt sediment lining the bottom, you’ll get a different taste. Next.

First Espresso Maker

College graduation, check. Job, check.  Hobby/vice, empty box. Okay, back in 2000, I had a full-time job that required me to wake at 3 am for a 5 am report time.  Ten hours later, I would then make my commute home.  Once home, I ate dinner, cleaned up, repeat.  Five long years of the same grind (no pun) had passed.  I was tired, and literally needed to wake up!  So I had extra money and counter-space and thought to myself, “why not fill it with a fancy espresso machine”.  Before I went fancy, several months of dedicated research went towards identifying a good starter espresso machine and processes from grind to extraction.  Once fully educated, I made the $100.00 splurge.  Ladies and gentleman, I introduce to you, the Delonghi EC-155 espresso machine.  Not a terrible machine, in fact, probably the best starter for the money.  This machine allowed me to quickly learn the espresso-making process while also helping me determine the level of seriousness I would place on the coffee experience.  I had no idea what I was doing, so over the weekend, my brewing determination began.   

Process: It took me literally the entire weekend to dial a good consistent pull yielding a ¾ oz. shot of espresso, accompanied by sweet crème.  The shot took between 18-20 seconds using an 11-gram dose of Starbucks Espresso roast beans (yes not there yet on the bean selection). 
A few notes on the Delonghi, the plastic tamper is terrible, so I bought a fancy rosewood tamp.  I used a cheap burr grinder from Wal-Mart.  The frother was pretty neat, and soon after a little practice with dish soap, I was producing silky microfoam at a substantial 150 degrees.  Even made heart latte art.  It looked awesome! 

Result: The cappuccinos were great; however, it was exceedingly difficult to pull anything that yielded an authentic quality espresso taste.  When I used a good quality whole bean, I believe it was Klatch’s WBC, I was then able to taste subtle hints of greatness.  Masking the bitterness, I’ve learned both friends and family enjoyed the cappuccinos, especially with chocolates topped with anisette or whipped cream.  Another observation made, I was continually adding water to the reservoir.  However, a bit of a nuisance, perhaps a good thing was that people were asking for seconds.
One final note, the stainless boiler held temperature well; however, I had no idea what the final temperature was at the group head.  This is an issue if you’re looking for a consistent pull.  I was well on my way to becoming a champion barista!  Many issues, though, onto the next chapter.

French Press

As fast as I became a coffee expert using the Delonghi, just as quickly, I was required to go overseas for months at a time.  Unfortunately, the trips required that I regress to the drip era.  Shortly after my overseas arrival in 2007, I learned flavors produced from a drip were no longer palatable, so I started to explore my options.  I was looking for a deep rich coffee flavor not unique to the drip.
After some hefty research, I decided to go with the alternate, the French Press.  Two weeks later, I received my first Bodum Brazil 8 cup French Press for $29.99 and a cheap blade grinder.  For many months it worked well until someone inadvertently knocked it over in the community coffee area.  This unfortunate event forced me to order the BonJour Insulated Stainless Press ($79.99). I use the very same press to this day.

Process: One word of caution, too fine of a grind, can clog the press screen, making it extremely difficult to plunge. Aim for a grind coarseness that will require about 10 lbs. of pressure when plunging.  If it gets too difficult, pull up just a hair and try again. Too much fluid pressure may cause a rupture (coffee eruption), covering both you and the surroundings with spewed grounds, scalding water, and sometimes shards of glass.  Along with the crappy blade grinder, I bought a water kettle with a temperature read-out.
My brewing temperature preference for coffee is between 198-200 degrees, depending on the blend.  Once you dial in a good grind, place the grounds in the bottom of the clean/dry press.  If possible, add hot water and use a wooden stir stick to agitate the bubbles just for a bit.
Let steep for 3-4 minutes and press away.  Once complete, immediately serve and do not press any further.  Brewing longer than 4 minutes will cause tannin release, making for a bitter taste.  A few additional pointers.  Water-to-coffee ratios are essential for honing-in on a specific flavor, so document at first.   Another pointer, once water is added, use a paper towel to skim the top before agitation.  This step will cut down on the fine particles and sediment usually found at the bottom of the cup. 

Result: The longer the steep, the bolder the coffee taste. Even after the press, coffee will continue to brew, so serve immediately.  For me, the French Press beats any Drip or Keurig.  Both the pressure of the press, and direct contact with the water while steeping, brings out a bold coffee taste.  There is still potential for a bitter cup if you mess up your grind, use stale coffee, or add scalding water, but even yet, cleaning is minimal, and the experience of a French Press is enjoyable. 

Prosumer Espresso Machine

My work overseas came to a close, and it was time to head back to the States for a while.  Before my return, I needed to take a quick pit-stop to Italy.  It was in Italy, specifically Rome, where I tasted for the very first time what espresso should taste like.  In 2008, using the Roman Coliseum as a backdrop, I visited a local espresso bar.  Not the cleanest of barista bars, so I didn’t expect much.  I was dead wrong.  I ordered a double shot of espresso, and within seconds of tasting, I knew my coffee peregrination would take a sharp turn.  Specialty coffee shops were non-existent back in my hometown, so this was my first experience at a specialty coffee bar.  To be honest, between my grandfather’s Moka, Drip coffee, my Delonghi, French Press, and Starbucks, I had no clue that an espresso shot could deliver so many floral and cereal-like notes without a hint of bitterness.  Amazing!  So I needed to replicate my Italian experience, and I knew it was not possible using my Delonghi.
With that, I introduce to you the Light Duty Commercial Expobar Brewtus IV-P.  Applying months of research while overseas, I finally narrowed my search down to either the Expobar Brewtus IV or the Rancilio Sylvia-M.  Two separate classes of espresso machines, I was torn whether or not to go with a modest $800.00 machine (Rancilio) or go all the way to the $2K class machine.  My decision came down to the fact that many of the reviews written by Rancilio owners (who were very pleased), often upgraded to the Brewtus IV. I’m glad I started with the Delonghi and skipped the Rancilio progression.  There are so many options, so if you’re in the market, I recommend you understand the differences between rotary vs. vibration, dual-boiler vs. HX, maintenance and water requirements (descaling), etc.  Ask the questions, is it pre-infuse capable, is it an E61 group, PID, and can it be plumbed?  Know the in’s and out’s, and don’t hesitate to ask questions.

Process: Day of arrival, the machine came on a pallet. Need I say more?  It was awesome, like getting a new appliance or car.  The machine took a few weeks to arrive, so I watched every video available while waiting.  Eager to brew, I had three different coffee specialty blends, a new tamp matt, new frothing pitcher, and I can’t leave out the essential piece, a new Baratza Vario grinder for around $480.00.
I won’t go through the first weekend in detail because I think it’s more important to learn your new machine without adding unconscious bias.  I will say, this is when you want to tailor the setup and dial-it in to fit your brewing preference.  I slightly altered the pump pressure due to high city water pressure, programmed the PID to 202 degrees, experimented with a different steam wand nozzle, added a regular in-line filter, etc.  I will also highlight, make sure to measure out, weigh, and level the dose by swiping your finger across the portafilter before tamping. I use the concave method of leveling (different post).  I recommend that you buy both a stainless backflush insert along with a bottomless portafilter.  Avoid the rubber inserts for backflushing.  Also very important, and you’ll do this at least once, be sure after extraction, that the lever is in the downward position before disengaging the portafilter!  Otherwise, you’ll have a huge mess, and potentially will be subjected to a coffee explosion.  It’s also important to note, for the Brewtus IV-P, Whole Latte Love has an incredible reference library. If there is ever a problem or question, aside from calling the company directly, dozens of how-to videos, pictures, and content provide specific instruction geared towards changing out, maintaining, diagnosing, and fixing anything on your machine.  For example, recently (2020), my steam boiler stopped working.
Using the how-to videos, I was able to troubleshoot, find, and fix the issue using a multimeter and screwdriver (High Limit Broiler Switch reset).  I’m intimate with my machine’s inner workings and feel comfortable performing any maintenance (minus the descaling of the dual-broilers).

Results: I love my Brewtus; however, the machine alone will not magically deliver the perfect shot.  See my Liquid Gold Rules summary sheet at the bottom for a detailed explanation.  After applying the rules, the Brewtus recreated and consistently delivered the desired Italian shot from Rome.  Since then, I’ve extracted even better shots; however, at this point, it’s not by sticking to the Liquid Gold Rules alone, but also incorporating different blended roasts. I’ll save that experience for another post.

Pot, Candle, and Sifter

Coffee specific, just when I thought I’d seen it all, there is always another pleasant surprise around each corner.  For example, have you heard of Cascara? Qashar?  Until 2018 I had no clue what it was until I visited a local village while in Africa.  Seeking a local roast, to my surprise, I was told many of the locals rarely drink coffee! Most of the cultivated green beans are exported; however, locals brew and consume what they call Qashar.  Qashar is an Arabic term which, in English, translates to husk or skin.  In the same region, locals also call it Cascara, the same translation from Spanish, meaning husk.  I was fascinated, so I partook in the process for several months. 

Process: Locals take the husks (or skin) from the coffee cherries, dry them, then roast in an open pot over a candle or portable burner.  Once roasted to their liking, they add hot water (180 degrees) and let steep for 5-10 minutes.  Next, they pour the brew through a screen sifter over a coffee cup.  They add goat milk and drink. I’ve seen an alternate coffee-drip like a method where the locals add the roasted husks directly to the sifter from the pot without seeping.
Roasted husks are added to the sifter; heated water is poured through the sifter placed atop the coffee cup, add milk, and enjoy.

Results: Surprisingly, good!  A little acidic at times, however, hints of very earthy and nutty notes with subtle similarities to a SO Ethiopian roasted bean were detected.

Next Chapter

I’m still in the front-end of my coffee peregrination.  Since the Brewtus (2008), I’ve started home roasting and created over 50 blends, taken multiple trips to coffee farms and roasters throughout the U.S., Africa, Hawaii, Jamaica, and Columbia.  I have even experienced the brewing process of Turkish coffee in Turkey. I’m looking to upgrade to a gas-fired Roaster soon.  I’m currently exploring gravity-fed cold drip brewing techniques, attended cupping sessions, and hopefully, one day will attend a condensed barista school. After, I plan to delve deeper into the craft of Sumatran coffee.

Liquid Gold Rules

It took me a while to realize that there are a few rules required to consistently extract the perfect shot.  Like anything, it relies heavily on a team effort, all systems and techniques working together.  I remember it by applying the PUCS concept. Assuming you have good beans, follow this approach, and your shot 🤓 of gaining a perfect brew increases greatly.

Pressure – espresso is bold mainly because of the force of pressure, 9 bars or 150 psi are necessary for the emergence and extraction of essential oils.  Pay close attention to not only the gauge readout but also the flow rate. For Brewtus it is roughly 1oz in 12 seconds.

Not all machines can pull this off…. no pun intended. 🤓

Uniformity – Each Roaster creates a blend to deliver a specif flavor. As a barista, to achieve this flavor, it is essential to follow specific temperature, weight (dosage), and brew time instructions. Many specialty roasters will print this on the bag.  Also, you need to consider tamp pressure.

Coarseness – Coarseness of the grind is critical.  Too course and channeling may occur (Under Extraction).  If this happens, you won’t hit your mark on brew time specified by the roaster as the water flows through the filter (sour).  Too fine of a grind can cause Over Extraction (bitter).  Dial-it in each time and be consistent.  If you haven’t realized in my post, one common thread that correlated with bitterness is that I consistently used “a crappy grinder.” Also, take note of degassing. Each day after the initial roast will require a different tweak on your grinder; It will also deliver a different taste. A crappy grinder is not the only key to a good shot but a vital member of the team. 

Spotless – You can have a $9000.00 espresso machine, but if your E61 group head, portafilter, or grinder have coffee residue, you will have some degree of bitterness in your brew.  The main reason why maintenance and cleanliness are critical.  Follow machine guidelines and recommendations.  Additionally, descaling is necessary; the build-up will cause inefficiencies in both temperature and extraction pressures. One thing I wish I’ve known earlier on; water quality is not only essential for taste but also critical to ensure your machine runs efficiently. I recommend you find a quality filtration system that removes heavy metals that cause scaling. You can test the hardness of your water or look at your local water quality report to learn more. Again, cleanliness aside, good water is essential for great taste.